Following his first haute couture show in January, Kim Jones presented his vision of Fendi women’s ready-to-wear for Fall/Winter 2021 on February 24. Alongside Silvia Venturini Fendi for accessories and her daughter Delfina Delettrez Fendi for jewelry, The new Artistic Director paid homage to the women of the Fendi family. Their allure, their legacy and their Italian origins all inspired a collection celebrating family.
The monochrome silhouettes imagined by Kim Jones walked a runway framed by references to ancient Rome in F-shaped glass boxes. In this contemporary museum décor, the vestiges of antiquity focused a spotlight on contrasts between heritage, savoir-faire and ultra-modernity. Kim Jones found inspiration in the wardrobes of the five Fendi sisters, “a powerful dynasty” that energized the development of the family house by recruiting Karl Lagerfeld in 1965. A palette of camel, powdery pink, taupe, olive green and marble white referenced the different generations of Fendi women. The final silhouettes in sophisticated black were a nod to Delfina Delettrez Fendi, who wore a black tuxedo at her first meeting with Kim Jones. A fourth generation member of the family, she embodies the Maison’s creative future. For the show she introduced a new range of Fendi O’Lock jewelry, an update on the iconic logo in the form of padlocks that can only be opened by dialing FENDI.
“The Fendi family are women of intellect who work hard – and that’s what I wanted to celebrate,” said Kim Jones. In an ongoing dialogue with them, the artistic director gave Silvia Venturini Fendi the idea of reappropriating the family “F” to create a bag. With its tilted initial “F”, the Fendi First bag was a highlight accessory, presented in myriad variations, from a jewelry micro pouch on a chain to a clutch in different leathers and exotics. This new classic joins the Peekaboo and Sunshine Shopper. Kim Jones’ new Roman empresses showcase the savoir-faire of the House with these luxurious accessories.
The spectacular quality of the materials – from mink and leathers to silk – impart an exceptional touch to the women who wear them. Fendi workshops meticulously embroidered delicate organza and applied exquisite embossed Selleria stitching on leather accessories, as well as the collars of garbardine trenches and cashmere coats. Listening to the needs of women, Kim Jones said he wanted to create chic and timeless pieces. The show had an air of sensuality with plays of bare skin at the shoulders and midriff. Legs stood out in Karligraphy stockings and ankles were lifted by heels with an inverted Fendi logo inspired by a Karl Lagerfeld archive sketch.
To cap this first ready-to-wear collection for Fendi, Kim Jones took a bow to the captivating song by Carl Abrahamsson & Genesis Breyer P-Orridge titled “S/He Is Her/E”, a powerful echo of the artistic director’s vision, exhorting viewers to “change the world” and “embrace the future with a kiss”.
The runway show and behind the scenes videos of the décor and backstage are posted on the Fendi website.